Tuesday, September 18, 2018

That weekend when Chicago tried to seduce us

I imagined Chicago as being in your face, just like its mayor Rahm Emmanuel. I imagined it as notorious, just like the Chicago Bears, or like one of its most infamous citizens, Al Capone. I imagined it harsh, like its cold wind-swept winters. As the nation’s murder capital, I imagined it brutal and crime ridden.


On this fall trip, Chicago showed us a much different picture. It was as if the city got its nails done, put some red lipstick and had put on that special sexy lingerie, ready to seduce a family from California.



The weather was wonderful: full sun, barely a cloud in the sky and very little humidity to speak of. We are used to putting on a sweater at night in Northern California. Not here, the temperature at 11pm was balmy. What harsh Chicago weather are people talking about? The Windy City? Our biggest concern was not to forget to throw a light sweater into our backpack for when the air-conditioning was set too high.


We stayed at the Inter Continental Hotel on the Magnificent Mile. This hotel used to be a famous athletic club in the old days. The executive tower has great architectural details and a wonderful pool. The hotel is centrally located, and on the most beautiful and luxurious avenue of the city: Michigan Avenue. It was great to stroll down the street and ride the elevator of the John Hancock Center to the 94th floor to get an awesome 360 degree panoramic view of the city. The old Tribune building is next door to the hotel, and we are only a few blocks from the iconic river walk.





The city wanted us to see all its beauty: from the lake, the prohibition era buildings, the Millennium park, with the Buckingham fountain, the Bean, the face fountain and wonderful city skyline. We sat on the beaches of Lake Michigan, and rode city bikes along the shoreline to the Navy Pier. We even geeked out and went downstairs the Chase tower to the Chase auditorium in downtown Chicago. Fans of Peter Sagal and NPR’s Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me know what I am talking about.

During our stay, we also ventured North to visit Loyola Chicago University, and NorthWestern University in the posh Evanston college town. Both are really great, yet pricey, institutions. The North of Chicago appears upscale, green and mostly caucasian. We didn’t dare to venture to the South Side. After all, Chicago is still the murder capital of the US.



If we weren’t impressed yet, it was time to sit down and eat. A Chicago-style pizza pie at Giordano’s is a must. Pause your calorie counter for a few days. This is a wonderfully tasting cheese-pie, topped with a yummy tomato sauce. Calling it a pizza is a stretch. Though I wouldn’t want to debate a Chicago native on the subject of their deep dish pizza. If Chicago calls it a pizza, it is a pizza. The Bay Area is hardly a pizza reference: we ruined it by putting Broccoli on pizza, remember?


We continued our food travels with a great brunch at Hot Chocolate in Wicker Park. (It is near the 606, a train track converted into a walk and bicycle route). Sunday evening, we sat down for a nice steak at Michael Jordan’s steakhouse adjacent to the hotel. Yes, his royal fly-ness Michael Jordan. The Purple Pig on the Magnificent Mile is a great and popular tapa place.


Coffeeshops are a plenty in Chicago, from the big chains like Starbucks and Peet’s to the mom and pop owned corner coffeeshops.

Before heading back to O’Hare airport, we had to stop by Portillo’s for a classic Chicago jumbo dog. We were surrounded by Bear fans, as they headed to the home game against the Seattle Seahawks.


During our visit Chicago surely put it’s best foot forward. There was no traffic. We felt safe. People were nice and friendly. The weather and food were great. The view of the lake is stunning. People everywhere were active, and running, swimming or bicycling. We loved it here.




Monday, September 10, 2018

Nashville


I was not ready for the wall of music which hits you when you stroll down Lower Broadway in Nashville. I was visiting to recruit brilliant computer science students at Vanderbilt University. Tuesday night, we were scheduled to attend an engineering SLAM, a mix of poetry SLAM and mingle event with engineering students. Wednesday was the big career fair.



After a long day traveling from the West Coast, and the evening SLAM session at the university, I was hungry for dinner. It was a Tuesday night, and we decided to walk a few blocks from our hotel to downtown area to find a place to eat. That's when it hit me: a half of mile of bars, many with multiple levels and multiple stages. 


On this Tuesday, on every stage the next country band is auditioning for the unknown scout in the audience. Here it is American Idol every day. What a party! The next evening, on Wednesday it was no different. Again, on every stage there is a great band of musicians holding court and entertaining the Nashville hot chicken or bbq eating patrons. 






We went to Ole Red's, to James Aldaen's place, to Luke Bryan's place and peaked into many more: Legends Corner, Tootsie's, Dixie Land, Honky Tonk Central. Climb a few floors and you get a great view of the city from the roof top patios and bars. The bridge, the Predators' ice hockey stadium, the Tennessee Titan's Nissan football stadium, the AT&T "batman" building, the hustle and bustle on Broadway. Nashville downtown is quite compact and lots is happening in a square mile.





I knew this was the country music capital of the world. Until you experience it, you don't realize how big the music scene is. Anybody who wants to be somebody in country music has to record in Nashville. You made it if you played on stage at the Grand Ole Opry. I didn't get to visit the Grand altar, even though on that night it promised to be a fun evening with Rascal Flatts and co performing.

Beyond the music, I was impressed how friendly and nice everybody is in Nashville. What a pleasant place! The Lyft and Uber drivers are super nice, and yes, they do pick you up in their pick-ups (unlike the hybrid Honda Civic in the Bay Area). And of course, there is the sweltering heat. It was hot (high nineties) and humid. And the temperature isn't really dropping at night. I was amazed to see the Vanderbilt running teams practice in the middle of the day.

I didn't know what to expect from Nashville. Surely the city surprised me pleasantly.