Saturday, December 22, 2018

The Longest Travel Day

Christmas time is already a very busy travel season. Highways back up. Airports report long check-in lines. When a storm hits either the East or West Coast, you can expect long delays, missed connections and lots of frustrated passengers. The Christmas season allows for little error. 

With that backdrop, I embarked on what surely is the longest travel itinerary I attempted. Compared to some of my colleagues, I am hardly an experienced traveller. I typically fly a few times a year domestic, and make a few trips to Europe, and an occasional trip to visit my family in law in Argentina. I hope I have planned this trip well. Luckily my family was already at the destination in Argentina. So it was just myself making this crazy five-legged trip. 



I woke up very early, not knowing how busy the San Jose airport gets before Christmas. On Facebook, I read reports from friends across the US of long early lines, even early in the morning. I left my house at 3:30am. It ended up being too early. There was hardly anyone at San Jose International Airport. I sailed through check-in and security, and didn’t really need TSA Pre-Check. I was even too early for the San Jose Priority Pass lounge (more on the lounges later). 






My first flight took my to Dallas Forth Worth on American Airlines. Visiting the Dallas SkyClub lounge required going to another terminal using the Skylink train. 



After a three hours lay-over in Dallas, I boarded a large Boeing 777-200 plane to Miami. This plane shuttles passengers back and forth between both hubs of American Airlines. 



In Miami, I switched airlines to Latam, Chile’s airline and partner of American Airlines. I also had to switch from terminal C to terminal J. It is a good 15 minutes walk and you need to pass again through security. I had plenty of time in Miami. The third part of my trip took me from Miami to Santiago de Chile. After watching Forrest Gump (yet again), I was able to take a long nap. We arrived in Santiago at 8am local time. 

There are big plans for the airport in Santiago. Lots of cranes and lots of construction is underway. I didn’t have to go very far to catch my connecting flight to Mendoza, Argentina. By coincidence, I ran into friends from San Jose in the airport. They live 10 minutes from us in San Jose, and here, thousands of miles away, we meet again, as they travel to Cordoba. 

The short plane ride from Santiago de Chile to Mendoza was the most impressive ride. It took you over the Andes mountain range - La Cordillera de los Andes - with its highest peak, the Aconcagua, nearby. It is hard to tell which peak is the Aconcagua. All I know is that it looms over the city of Mendoza, and it has to be one of the ones I snap a picture of. I was lucky to get a window seat at the back of the plane ... click ... click ... taking pictures of this ... click ... most incredible landscape. 





Arriving in Argentina through Mendoza International airport, rather than Ezeiza airport in Buenos Aires, was a much more relaxed passage. It was quick and less chaotic. In 15 minutes, I passed immigration and was outside with my luggage. My brother in law took me to his home for a few hours of rest, before I embark on my final trip to San Luis by bus. 




The trip to San Luis took about four hours, as you pass along the dry scrub landscape of the province of San Luis. 



A little over 34 hours since I left my house in San Jose, I finally arrive at my destination. I am amazed I didn’t miss a single connection or that my luggage didn’t get lost along the way. 


Living the lounge life

This many stops would have been much more difficult, if I wasn’t able to rest at the Priority Pass lounges. Through Chase Sapphire Reserve Visa card, I have access to the Priority Pass lounges in San Jose, Dallas, Miami and many other places. It is a perfect place to relax in a comfortable seat, have a coffee, a glass of champagne, and eat some soup and a sandwich. The best of it all is a relaxed environment, free Wifi, and a glass of wine, while you read a book or catch up on email. 


Traveling light

Prior to embarking on this trip, I did think hard and long about my luggage. I checked one large duffel bag and packed a light backpack, which fits under the seat in front of me. I didn’t have to worry about being early in line to find a place in the overhead compartment. All I had to do was show up on time for my flight. In my backpack I have the following gear: 
  • Kindle 
  • iPad mini and bluetooth keyboard
  • Anker five-in-one USB charger and cables
  • Anker battery pack
  • Small toilet bag, with toothbrush, toothpaste,  mouthwash, lipbalm, socks, eye-cover, earplugs, and small first aid kit. 
  • Notebook
  • Jacket (in case the air-conditioning is too cold)
  • Sunglasses, and case for my glasses. 
  • Mints
  • Passport and copy of my itinerary
  • Small nylon bag in case I need extra space. 

I do feel lucky that my entire trip went without a hick-up. Three hour lay-overs may it a very long travel day, but provide also the necessary buffer in case something goes awry. Access to a lounge is a plus. In two weeks, I will do the reverse trip. 

Sunday, December 16, 2018

One night in Barcelona

One night in Barcelona, it sounds like the title of a movie. Perhaps it is the next installment in the Ethan Hawke and Julie Delpy romance movie series.
(Trailer voice) They met originally in Vienna and traveled the city in Before Sunrise. Ten years later, they meet up again in Paris in Before Sunset. Now, almost twenty five years later, tickets were cheap to Barcelona. They meet again in Barcelona.
Except this is not a romantic movie. And (spoiler alert) I am not Ethan Hawke. And it is me alone exploring the city.
On my return from a business trip to Granada, I had a long lay over in Barcelona. I decided to put on my walking boots and explore the city.

Aerobus will take you from the airport to Plaza Catalunya for 5.90 Euros. I was lucky that by coincidence I had booked a hotel (Hotel Vasanta) near there. With a map in hand I set out to visit the big tourist attractions.
I strolled up and down Passeig de Gracia, a chique boulevard, with several impressive buildings designed by famous architects from the modernism era. Cases Mila “la Pedrera”, Casa Batilo, Casa Amatlier, Casa Lleo Morera and Casa Terrades (Les Punxes).
La Pedrera




Casa Terrades (Les Punxes)
The odd shaped buildings continue on Calle Mallorca on route to La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi’s unfinished, and under continuous construction masterpiece. What a church!







I continued along avenida de Gaudi to Sant Pau Recinte Modernista, a former hospital designed by Llius Domenech, now a center dedicated to modernism architecture.


Then it was time to head south to the Gothic area, passing along the Palau de Musica Catalana, another weird building. Each of these buildings look like out of a acid laced movie. In el Gotic, I walked the tiny streets around the Cathedral to La Casa la Ciutat (ajuntament).




I made it to the harbor, first passing Eglesia de Sancta Maria del Mar in the Born area. In the harbor near Barceloneta there were some amazing ships. I imagine a lot of tycoon-Russian is spoken aboard. The walk along the harbor is capped by two statues: the Cap de Barcelona, and Mirador de Colom. That’s where the famous Ramblas starts. It does feel more of a tourist promenade.





I left a few items for my next visit:
  • Park Guell
  • The beach
  • Mercat de la Boqueria
  • Plaza Espana
  • Camp Nou, the stadium of Messi and FC Barcelona
  • The restaurants Tickets, 41º, Bodega 1900, and Pakta of Albert Adria, brother of El Bulli 's Ferran Adria. 
  • Mount Tibidabo, which die hard fans of Friends surely remember.
  • Parc de MontJuic, home to the Olympic Games in 1992.
On this early December week, before the holidays, the city was very lively, until the early morning hours. People here really love to enjoy a good time on the town. There are small bars and restaurants everywhere. Unlike in Andalusia, where you get a free tapa with a beer, you do have to pay for your tapas. The prices are big-city prices.
Although I was cautious for pickpockets, I never felt unsafe, even when walking back to the hotel after midnight.
There remain big scars from the declaration of independence from Spain a few years ago. The Catalan flag is everywhere, as are signs with pro-independence messages. The Casa de Cuitat has a big banner to set the imprisoned politicians, who declared an autonomous Catalunya, free.
One night in Barcelona is clearly not enough. There is much more to explore, to taste and to sip. Next time, I hope to bring along the rest of my family. I know my wife and kids will love this place.

Tuesday, September 18, 2018

That weekend when Chicago tried to seduce us

I imagined Chicago as being in your face, just like its mayor Rahm Emmanuel. I imagined it as notorious, just like the Chicago Bears, or like one of its most infamous citizens, Al Capone. I imagined it harsh, like its cold wind-swept winters. As the nation’s murder capital, I imagined it brutal and crime ridden.


On this fall trip, Chicago showed us a much different picture. It was as if the city got its nails done, put some red lipstick and had put on that special sexy lingerie, ready to seduce a family from California.



The weather was wonderful: full sun, barely a cloud in the sky and very little humidity to speak of. We are used to putting on a sweater at night in Northern California. Not here, the temperature at 11pm was balmy. What harsh Chicago weather are people talking about? The Windy City? Our biggest concern was not to forget to throw a light sweater into our backpack for when the air-conditioning was set too high.


We stayed at the Inter Continental Hotel on the Magnificent Mile. This hotel used to be a famous athletic club in the old days. The executive tower has great architectural details and a wonderful pool. The hotel is centrally located, and on the most beautiful and luxurious avenue of the city: Michigan Avenue. It was great to stroll down the street and ride the elevator of the John Hancock Center to the 94th floor to get an awesome 360 degree panoramic view of the city. The old Tribune building is next door to the hotel, and we are only a few blocks from the iconic river walk.





The city wanted us to see all its beauty: from the lake, the prohibition era buildings, the Millennium park, with the Buckingham fountain, the Bean, the face fountain and wonderful city skyline. We sat on the beaches of Lake Michigan, and rode city bikes along the shoreline to the Navy Pier. We even geeked out and went downstairs the Chase tower to the Chase auditorium in downtown Chicago. Fans of Peter Sagal and NPR’s Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me know what I am talking about.

During our stay, we also ventured North to visit Loyola Chicago University, and NorthWestern University in the posh Evanston college town. Both are really great, yet pricey, institutions. The North of Chicago appears upscale, green and mostly caucasian. We didn’t dare to venture to the South Side. After all, Chicago is still the murder capital of the US.



If we weren’t impressed yet, it was time to sit down and eat. A Chicago-style pizza pie at Giordano’s is a must. Pause your calorie counter for a few days. This is a wonderfully tasting cheese-pie, topped with a yummy tomato sauce. Calling it a pizza is a stretch. Though I wouldn’t want to debate a Chicago native on the subject of their deep dish pizza. If Chicago calls it a pizza, it is a pizza. The Bay Area is hardly a pizza reference: we ruined it by putting Broccoli on pizza, remember?


We continued our food travels with a great brunch at Hot Chocolate in Wicker Park. (It is near the 606, a train track converted into a walk and bicycle route). Sunday evening, we sat down for a nice steak at Michael Jordan’s steakhouse adjacent to the hotel. Yes, his royal fly-ness Michael Jordan. The Purple Pig on the Magnificent Mile is a great and popular tapa place.


Coffeeshops are a plenty in Chicago, from the big chains like Starbucks and Peet’s to the mom and pop owned corner coffeeshops.

Before heading back to O’Hare airport, we had to stop by Portillo’s for a classic Chicago jumbo dog. We were surrounded by Bear fans, as they headed to the home game against the Seattle Seahawks.


During our visit Chicago surely put it’s best foot forward. There was no traffic. We felt safe. People were nice and friendly. The weather and food were great. The view of the lake is stunning. People everywhere were active, and running, swimming or bicycling. We loved it here.